In 2012 verloren we Jean Jacques Peters, voormalig ingenieur van het Waterbouwkundig Laboratorium (1964 tot 1979) en internationaal expert in sedimenttransport, rivierhydraulica en -morfologie. Als eerbetoon aan hem hebben we potamology (http://www.potamology.com/) gecreëerd, een virtueel gedenkarchief dat als doel heeft om zijn manier van denken en morfologische aanpak van rivierproblemen in de wereld in stand te houden en te verspreiden.
Het merendeel van z’n werk hebben we toegankelijk gemaakt via onderstaande zoekinterface.
A wave basin experiment has been performed in the MARINTEK laboratories, in one of the largest existing three-dimensional wave tanks in the world. The aim of the experiment is to investigate the effects of directional energy distribution on the statistical properties of surface gravity waves. Different degrees of directionality have been considered, starting from long-crested waves up to directional distributions with a spread of ±30° at the spectral peak. Particular attention is given to the tails of the distribution function of the surface elevation, wave heights and wave crests. Comparison with a simplified model based on second-order theory is reported. The results show that for long-crested, steep and narrow-banded waves, the second-order theory underestimates the probability of occurrence of large waves. As directional effects are included, the departure from second-order theory becomes less accentuated and the surface elevation is characterized by weak deviations from Gaussian statistics.
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