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Wave refraction in the Upper Adriatic Sea
Decouttere, C.; De Backer, K.; Monbaliu, J.; Berlamont, J. (1998). Wave refraction in the Upper Adriatic Sea, in: Gambolati, G. CENAS - Coastline Evolution of the Upper Adriatic Sea due to Sea Level Rise and Natural and Anthropogenic Land Subsidence. pp. 169-183. https://dx.doi.org/10.1007/978-94-011-5147-4_8
In: Gambolati, G. (1998). CENAS - Coastline Evolution of the Upper Adriatic Sea due to Sea Level Rise and Natural and Anthropogenic Land Subsidence. Springer Netherlands: Netherlands. ISBN 978-94-010-6163-6. xiii, 344 pp., meer
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Trefwoord
    Marien/Kust
Author keywords
    wave refraction; annual wave climate; local wave climate
Auteurs  Top 
  • Decouttere, C.
  • De Backer, K.
  • Monbaliu, J., meer
  • Berlamont, J., meer
Abstract
    For the study of the morphological changes of the Northern Adriatic coastline, the information about the nearshore wave climate is needed. The backward ray tracing refraction model LOMBOK is applied on a high resolution bathymetry in order to compute the annual inshore wave climate at the local sites of Ravenna, Rimini and Cesenatico. Wave observations from offshore platforms are used as model input. The refraction model brings the offshore wave climate inshore to the ten meter depth contour line in front of the local sites. The model takes into account the effects of shoaling, depth refraction and dissipation due to bottom friction. The most important storm types in the Adriatic Sea are the Bora and the Scirocco. Depending on the storm type, a different directional distribution of the wave energy spectrum is assumed in the refraction model. The wave data from the offshore platforms are based on observations. These observations were done at two different platforms with a water depth of 26 and 50 m. The recording period for wave directions and wave periods differs considerably. A representative wave climate for the 30 m depth contour line was created from these measurements in order to find a suitable input for the refraction model. Because the directions are observed in classes of 30 degrees, the directional resolution of the model results is limited. The wave directions at the local sites, however, are a crucial input for the morphological simulations.
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