Open WL Archief (OWA)

Coastal urban areas along the Belgian coast (and in other low-lying countries worldwide) rely on a hybrid beach-dike coastal defense system for protection against flooding. During design storm conditions, the nourished beach erodes to a very to extremely shallow foreshore in front of a low-crested impermeable sea dike. Wave overtopping at this type of structure has been shown to be affected by IG waves, based on physical (Altomare et al., 2016) and numerical modelling (Lashley et al., 2021) for shallow to extremely shallow foreshores. However, field observations of the influence of IG waves on wave overtopping have been scarce (van Gent and Giarusso, 2003) and the influence of free IG waves has not been investigated yet. Indeed, the amount of IG wave energy that is expected to arrive at the coastline, not only depends on IG waves naturally bound to the SS wave groups, but also on free IG waves generated offshore or locally reflected from the coast (edge waves). The Belgian continental shelf is characterized by the prevalence of offshore sandbanks (see Figure 1a), which might be an additional source of free IG waves, due to ss wave breaking on the shallow crest of those banks. These free IG waves are location specific and their existence can only be determined by field observations. Knowledge of the offshore boundary conditions with detailed IG wave information is indispensable for the correct prediction and modelling of surf zone hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics (Fiedler et al., 2019), and the consequent wave overtopping on the dike. Simultaneous measurements of IG waves, offshore and on the beach-dike system during storm conditions together with wave overtopping has not been done before, as it is complex and needs a specific setup with high precision measurement equipment. In-situ measurements provide an invaluable dataset (i.e., no model nor scale effects) and are essential for validating safety assessment and design methodologies of coastal defense systems.